Rootstocks for sale

Fruit tree rootstocks for grafting your own trees

We supply ungrafted fruit tree rootstocks for gardeners, collectors, orchard growers and professional nurseries wishing to produce their own trees.

The rootstock forms the roots and lower part of the future tree. It must subsequently receive a scion or bud from a botanically compatible fruit cultivar.

Choosing the rootstock is just as important as choosing the fruit variety.

It strongly influences tree vigour, mature size, time to first cropping, anchorage, longevity and adaptation to the soil.

A dwarfing or low-vigour rootstock produces a more compact tree that generally begins cropping earlier, but it normally requires more support and attention.

A vigorous rootstock produces a larger tree that is often better anchored and more independent once established, but requires considerably more space.

Read our guide to choosing fruit tree rootstocks

Which rootstock should you choose?

There is no single rootstock that is best for every situation.

The correct choice depends on the species to be grafted, the available space, soil type, wind exposure, drainage, water availability and the intended tree form.

Do not confuse the rootstock with the form of the tree

The rootstock largely determines the future vigour and potential dimensions of the tree.

Tree form describes the way an already grafted tree has been trained and presented, such as a maiden, bush, half-standard or standard.

The products in this category are rootstocks only.

They are not yet named fruit cultivars and will not produce the fruit you require until they have been grafted.

The height of the graft and the subsequent training system can be used to form a maiden, bush, low tree, half-standard or standard within the limits imposed by the vigour of the rootstock.

A high graft does not transform a dwarfing rootstock into a vigorous standard root system, and a low graft does not make a vigorous rootstock permanently compact.

Rootstocks supplied by specialist propagators

We do not propagate the majority of the rootstocks offered in this category ourselves.

Most are obtained from specialist growers equipped to produce the numerous clones and seedlings required for different fruit species.

We select and supply them in order to offer rootstocks for apples, pears, plums, cherries, citrus and other fruit trees, according to seasonal availability.

The rootstocks currently propagated directly within our own nursery include Citrumelo C4475 and several cultivars or selections of Poncirus, used principally for grafting cold-hardy citrus.

This difference does not alter their horticultural function.

Whether propagated by us or by another specialist nursery, every rootstock should be selected according to its identity, vigour, soil adaptation and compatibility with the intended scion.

Living plants with naturally variable size grades

Rootstocks are living young plants, so their diameter, height and root system vary according to species, propagation method and growing conditions during the season.

An exceptionally thick rootstock is not necessarily better than a finer one.

The stem diameter should principally suit the intended grafting method and provide an appropriate match with the scion wood.

Fine rootstocks are particularly suitable for whip-and-tongue grafting and other forms of bench grafting.

More developed plants may be suitable for cleft, side, bark or field grafting according to species, stem diameter and season.

Any diameter grade stated on the product page represents a range rather than an identical measurement for every plant.

When should rootstocks be planted and grafted?

Most of our rootstocks are supplied bare-root while dormant.

They should be planted promptly after delivery whenever the soil is neither frozen nor waterlogged.

If planting must be delayed, keep the roots moist and protected from wind and frost.

For storage lasting more than a few days, heel the plants temporarily into loose soil so that the complete root system remains covered and does not dry out.

A rootstock can be bench-grafted before planting when its diameter and the chosen technique are suitable.

It can also be planted first and grafted later after successful establishment.

The best method depends on the species, the available scion wood, the season and the grafting technique being used.

Where rootstocks are planted for summer budding, maintain a weed-free row and provide sufficient water throughout the first season.

Active growth is required for the bark to lift correctly during T-budding or similar techniques.

Preparing the planting area correctly

Prepare a sufficiently broad area of soil and remove couch grass, bindweed and other perennial weeds carefully.

Young rootstocks compete poorly with established vegetation for water and nutrients.

Spread the roots naturally without folding them upwards or forcing them into a narrow planting hole.

Backfill principally with the original soil after breaking it into a fine and workable structure.

Do not place fresh manure, concentrated fertiliser or a pocket of pure potting compost directly against the roots.

Water thoroughly after planting so that the soil settles around the root system.

Keep the row weed-free and continue watering throughout the first growing season whenever rainfall is insufficient.

A layer of mulch can reduce evaporation and weed competition but should not remain pressed against the stem.

Where several rootstocks are planted within a nursery row before grafting, provide enough space for cultivation, tying, sucker removal and the eventual lifting of the young trees without excessive root damage.

Planting depth and future graft position

Plant the rootstock at approximately the same depth at which it was growing in the nursery.

The root collar should not be buried deeply beneath the finished soil surface.

Where the rootstock has already been grafted before planting, keep the graft union clearly above ground level.

Deep planting can encourage the scion to produce its own roots and partially or completely bypass the influence of the rootstock.

It can also keep sensitive bark continuously wet and increase the risk of collar decay.

The final grafting height should be chosen according to the intended tree form, the grafting technique and the need to protect the future union from soil moisture and mechanical damage.

Successful grafting depends on cambial contact

Grafting success depends on fresh scion wood, suitable timing, precise cuts and close contact between the cambium of the rootstock and that of the selected cultivar.

The scion and rootstock do not have to possess exactly the same diameter.

Where their diameters differ, align the cambial layers accurately along at least one side rather than centring the scion mechanically.

Secure the graft firmly and protect the cut surfaces from drying.

Once growth begins, support the new shoot with a stake before it becomes vulnerable to wind damage.

Remove shoots appearing beneath the graft union regularly because they belong to the rootstock and compete with the selected cultivar.

A successful graft still requires careful watering, weed control, staking and protection from animals during the first growing seasons.

Bench grafting or grafting after establishment?

Dwarfing rootstocks require suitable growing conditions

A dwarfing rootstock does not create a small tree independently of soil, water, support and pruning.

Its reduced root system normally makes the tree more dependent on fertile ground and regular moisture.

Permanent support may be required because reduced vigour can be accompanied by weaker anchorage.

Grass competition can restrict growth severely, particularly during establishment.

A dwarfing rootstock planted in poor, dry or compacted soil may produce a weak and unhealthy tree rather than a compact and productive one.

These rootstocks are most successful where their greater management requirements can be met consistently.

Vigorous rootstocks require enough permanent space

A vigorous rootstock is normally chosen for durability, anchorage, larger tree forms and adaptation to lower-input orchard conditions.

The resulting tree can eventually occupy a substantial area and should be positioned accordingly from the beginning.

Do not rely on severe annual pruning to confine a naturally vigorous tree permanently within a restricted garden.

Heavy cutting stimulates strong regrowth, delays cropping and creates large wounds.

Correct spacing and formative pruning during the first years are more effective than attempting to reduce an unsuitable mature tree later.

Rootstock and scion compatibility

Botanical compatibility is not always a simple question of whether a graft begins growing during its first season.

Some combinations form an apparently successful union and then develop swelling, restricted sap movement, mechanical weakness or progressive decline several years later.

This delayed incompatibility is especially important in pears grafted onto quince and in several combinations involving stone fruit species.

An interstem can sometimes be used between an incompatible cultivar and rootstock, but this creates two graft unions and requires a proven combination.

Use established cultivar–rootstock pairings wherever reliable information is available.

Seedling and clonal rootstocks

Read the rootstock guide before ordering

Our guide explains the main principles used to compare fruit tree rootstocks by species, vigour, mature size, anchorage, soil adaptation and intended use.

It also explains the distinction between the rootstock and the trained form of the tree and helps prevent selection based only on a theoretical height.

Read the fruit tree rootstock guide