Apricot trees

Can apricots be grown in cool climates?

Apricot trees can withstand considerable winter cold, but their early flowering makes fruit production less reliable than that of apple or pear trees. A tree may remain perfectly healthy after a cold winter yet produce no fruit if its blossom is damaged by a late spring frost.

To improve the chances of a successful crop, several factors must be considered together: a sufficiently late-flowering variety, a carefully chosen position, well-drained soil and a tree that remains healthy under humid conditions.

No variety can guarantee a crop every year in an area regularly affected by late frosts. Some cultivars are nevertheless much more reliable than early-flowering or poorly adapted varieties.

The main criteria when choosing an apricot tree

Where should an apricot tree be planted?

Apricot trees prefer a bright, warm and well-ventilated position. However, it is important to distinguish between the warmth needed to ripen the fruit and excessive winter heat that may cause the tree to start growing too early.

Avoid low-lying areas where cold air collects on still nights. A gentle slope or an open position that allows cold air to drain away is generally safer than a sheltered hollow surrounded on all sides.

Planting close to a wall can protect the tree from wind and improve fruit ripening. However, a very warm south-facing wall may bring growth and flowering forward, increasing the blossom’s exposure to late frosts.

In colder regions, a bright position that does not warm excessively quickly at the end of winter may sometimes be safer than a location exposed to intense sunshine from the first mild days.

Well-drained soil is essential

Apricot trees do not tolerate soil that remains waterlogged during winter. Prolonged moisture around the roots and root collar weakens the tree and encourages canker and dieback.

In heavy soil, the tree should not be planted at the bottom of a hole filled with compost or potting soil. It is better to improve drainage over a wider area, plant slightly raised when necessary and avoid keeping the soil permanently wet around the trunk.

The soil must nevertheless be able to supply sufficient moisture during summer. A newly planted apricot tree should not be allowed to suffer severe drought while its root system is becoming established.

Bacterial canker and apricot dieback

Bacterial canker can cause sunken lesions, gumming and the death of shoots or entire branches. Infection is favoured by wounds and by cold, wet conditions.

Avoid damaging the trunk, allowing branches to break under the weight of fruit or making unnecessary large pruning cuts. A tree that is carefully trained during its first years will require fewer major interventions later.

Affected branches should be removed back to healthy wood. Tools must be kept clean and infected material removed from the orchard. A tolerant variety, a well-drained position and pruning carried out under suitable conditions greatly reduce the risk of dieback.

Blossom wilt and brown rot

Brown rot fungi can infect flowers and young shoots in spring, before causing the fruit to rot as it approaches maturity. The risk increases when flowering or harvest coincides with a period of frequent rain.

Infected fruit turns brown and may develop small rings or patches of spores. These fruits should not be left on the tree, as mummified fruit remains an important source of infection for future seasons.

An open, well-ventilated crown, the removal of infected wood, the collection of diseased fruit and the prevention of unnecessary wounds all help to maintain a healthier tree.

When and how should an apricot tree be pruned?

Apricot trees heal poorly when pruned during cold and wet weather. Large winter cuts can provide entry points for bacteria and fungi responsible for canker and dieback.

It is preferable to train the tree gradually and prune during dry weather while it is actively growing, generally in summer or immediately after harvest. The wounds then have more time to begin healing before the return of autumn rain.

Pruning should remain moderate: remove dead or diseased wood, thin out crossing branches and maintain a sufficiently open crown so that the foliage dries quickly after rain.

Thin the fruit to protect the tree

When the blossom escapes frost, an apricot tree may set a very heavy crop. Overcropping produces smaller fruit and can cause branches to break.

Thinning improves fruit size and distribution while reducing the risk of branch damage that could later become an entry point for wood diseases.

Extend the apricot harvest season

The earliest varieties ripen several weeks before the latest cultivars. By combining different ripening periods, it is possible to harvest apricots over a much longer part of the summer.

This is also useful in humid climates, as not every variety will be exposed to the same spell of rain when the fruit is most vulnerable to brown rot and splitting.

View the apricot harvest calendar

Harvest periods are indicative and may vary according to the region, exposure, rootstock, crop load and weather conditions during the season.

Which rootstock should be chosen for an apricot tree?

The rootstock influences tree vigour, soil adaptation, tolerance of moisture and compatibility with the grafted variety. It should be selected primarily according to the soil rather than solely according to the desired final size of the tree.

Some variety and rootstock combinations can develop incompatibility that only becomes visible after several years. It is therefore important to use proven combinations suited to the intended growing conditions.

Which form of apricot tree should be chosen?

An apricot tree can be grown as a free-standing tree or trained against a wall. A trained form makes protection, harvesting and vigour management easier, but requires regular maintenance.

A maiden tree allows the grower to build a form suited to the available space. A tree that has already been shaped saves time, but its future size must still be taken into account before planting.